My article on the cruise made it through their editing dept and on to the website
ReadingRoom
A literary festival on the Queen Elizabeth
An author reports on the strange and beautiful setting of a writers festival at sea
by Diane Robinson27 seconds ago
One author told me at a literary festival this summer that she doubted that any of invited writers would ever again have such a large, enthusiastic audience. Or, as captive: I forked out several thousand dollars in December for a five-night cruise onboard the Queen Elizabeth from Sydney to Hobart to experience The Australian Literature Festival At Sea.
Ten authors formed the programme. I ignored the deck croquet and other entertainments in favour of concentrating my energy on the author talks. Each presentation took place in the 850-seat Royal Court Theatre – royal boxes, gilding, chandeliers, cultured. Obtaining a seat required arriving at least 30 minutes before the scheduled start. The remaining 1150 passengers had to make do with the live screenings in bars or their cabins etc
The reality was that most of the 2000 passengers had come for the literature, not the casino, spa or bingo.
The authors and their partners stayed in the more expensive Grill-class cabins that have their own exclusive restaurants and bars. The expensive cabins sold out first, possibly a reflection of the age demographic. The average age was 70. The crew in charge of the children’s centre had little to do – I only saw four children during the entire voyage. I felt sorry for the 22-year-old I spoke to, who admitted she felt the odd one out.
The authors included Sir Alexander McCall Smith (The Botswana No.1 Ladies Detective Agency series), Kiwi crime writer Paul Cleave, and seven Australian writers. McCall Smith was the festival’s superstar: his book signing queue felt like it stretched across Bass Strait. He spoke of his grandfather George McCall Smith, a respected doctor at Rawene Hospital in Hokianga – he’d left his wife and children in the UK when he moved to New Zealand, and they never saw him again.
Paul Cleave was asked 18 months ago if he’d like to participate in the all-expenses paid. When he realised it would also mean avoiding his 50th birthday because he’d be flying to Sydney that day, it was easy to say yes.
Dymocks chose the authors for the cruise. There was Anne Buist, a psychiatrist turned author who has jointly written several novels with her husband Graeme Simsion. They screened a speeded-up video showing them applying the “plotter” method to their writing. It showed them arranging cards for the scenes in their novel The Glass House. There was Cassie Hamer, who spoke of the genre “romantasy”, a massive seller among teenage girls, with sales driven by Book Tok. And there was investigative journalist Nick McKenzie, who spoke of war crimes allegedly committed in Afghanistan by Australia’s most highly decorated soldier, Ben Roberts-Smith. McKenzie was the only writer to receive a standing ovation from the audience. He was also the only writer with whom I shared a hot tub. His mum was sitting nearby.
The Queen Elizabeth is part of the UK based Cunard line and plays up its heritage. Whereas some cruise ships are modern bling, the Queen Elizabeth is elegant nostalgia. I am a sucker for art deco, so I lapped up the décor. The wavy Q (for Queen) and geometric patterned multi coloured carpets, square edged mirrors, the curved bannisters of the overhead mezzanine and the stylised flame shaped lights. It was “1920’s lifestyles of the rich and famous”. Hurrah!
The stand out feature was the Art Deco stylised depiction of the ship in a two-deck high panel of inlaid woods such as walnut, ash and ebony. It was made by David Lindley (Princess Margaret’s son). My favourite room was of course the library. It was spread over two floors with its own internal spiral wooden staircase. It had real leather seats, a librarian in a three-piece suit and glass doors on the shelves to stop the books falling out as we rode the Bass Strait swells.
The ship’s bookshop, however, could only fit 12 customers. It was hopelessly inadequate.
Meals were iconically British, eg Yorkshire pud and warm beer in the ship’s pub. Afternoon tea was served daily in the Queens Room. The white jacketed waiters made a choreographed entrance and then distributed the tea and club sandwiches, followed by cakes and scones. I was disappointed the jam came in sachets and like other meals the whole waiting for a table and waiting to be served took a while.
Some passengers had booked before any of the author names had been released. They came for the experience of a literary festival at sea. It’s such a good idea. I found myself remembering the first Auckland Writers Festival and a magical evening on the Kestrel ferry listening to authors read nautical extracts. I hope that can be repeated someday.
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Auckland chartered accountant Diane Robinson is the author of Nikolai's Quest, a finalist at the 2024 Ngaio Marsh crime writing awards. More by Diane Robinson
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